There are many places to stay at along the coast of Italy, but if you are lucky enough to spend some quality time in Positano, then besides climbing the countless steps to and from the sea, sunbathing on grey stones and drinking countless cocktails, I recommend pushing yourself to do the Path of the Gods.
Don’t worry, this is not a hard trek like the Calanques in Toulon (where I thought I’d die!), but is a humble walk, hundreds of meters above sea level. The trek is worth it for the views alone, but has enough of a mixture between rocky hillside and forest undergrowth to keep you interested.
Expect to walk approximately 17km and allow about 3-4hrs for the trek depending on how quickly you’ll walk. It’s the journey there that is the real battle! If you are traveling from Positano, please heed my advice and take the ferry from Positano to the Amalfi Coast. It may cost €8 compared to €1.80 for the SITA bus, but it is a far more comfortable journey and the views of the land whilst coasting along in the water are magnificent. When my group arrived to the Amalfi Coast we were far more happier and rested, unlike the travelers who experienced a crammed, hot bus ride.
Once in the Amalfi Coast you’ll have to check the bus schedule, but it is likely if you take the first 10am ferry from Positano to Amalfi, the next bus to Bomerano (the starting point of the walk) won’t leave until 12.30pm. This will give you a few hours to kill to see the sites such as the Amalfi Cathedral and eat some food to fuel up for your trek.
Take this seriously when I say you don’t want to miss the bus to Bomerano as they are hard to identify and only arrive every few hours. Keep asking the bus staff which bus will be yours so you can jump on as soon as it arrives, as this bus gets BUSY and don’t worry about seeming like an annoying tourist, they’re used to it!
(Had about 5 different cats doing the walk with us!)
It is a short walk from the stop at Bomerano to the town square and then you will continue on your walk down a dirt path to commence the Path of the Gods. If you stumble upon wooden stairs and pass some mountain goats, you’re going in the right direction!
When walking in a group, don’t feel pressured to go at a pace that doesn’t suit you. We started as a group of 1, but I enjoyed lolling behind with a few other girls and taking my time to actually absorb the view, all the while feeling on top of the world. The rest of our pack powered on without us. By being relaxed with our trek, this allowed us to discover a few places off the beaten track such as a gorgeous hidden waterfall where we drank the cleanest, coldest water I’ve ever tasted.
(hidden waterfall amongst the forest)
To find this waterfall keep your eyes peeled in the undercover forest areas. Halfway along your journey at about the 2hr mark, you’ll walk into a cool enclosed forest section and should easily see some steps that we couldn’t resist climbing. It brought us to a huge opening that met the final trickles of a waterfall.
When your experience is finished, you’ll arrive to a small village called Nocelle. I can’t recommend enough for you to stop at the very first cafe, immediately off the path, for a break to rest your legs before making the long journey back to Positano. The cafe provides another beautiful view of the long walk and it’s so quiet you feel like the only person in the world, or at least a bit like Jane from Tarzan amongst the trees, but that just might be me who felt that way.
The cafe uses locally grown produce and I got the mixed brusketta at a tasty €2. It was worth the gluten reaction to eat the best home made Italian bread ever!
Now that once you’re finally finished, Woohoo! You then have the option to either catch a bus back to Positano or, you guessed it! Keep on walking… I chose the road less traveled, meaning we decided to keep walking to prove we weren’t weaklings bailing out to catch a bus.
We ended up scaling so many stairs to the bottom of the cliff and walking another 5km. I’m certain my muscles have muscles now and I’m basically Supergirl, but me and my bung knee will be taking a rest as I think I’ll cry if I look at anymore stairs in the foreseeable future!
♥ Love from Leah